Moschino

Moschino did its best not to turn Scotland the Brave into Scotland the Bore. It is difficult when the Highlands have been mined so often for inspiration to get anything new out of plaid. But with taut jackets, perky pleated skirts and jaunty military helmets, the collection seemed upbeat and fun. Adding an embroidery of a heart to the kilts, just where a sporran might have swung, gave a touch of naughtiness.

There were some intriguing moments when it looked as though the short hemlines might be challenged by long, slim dresses, as the neck-to-toe, covered-up look is lurking around as a fashion trend. At one moment, short and long outfits, inevitably in plaid, appeared side by side on the runway. But the story was really in tailoring: sleek, concise and saleable.

A show that has every outfit with the same footwear — a narrow-heel court shoe — seems in need of some current fashion education. But if Sportmax ignored the hot accessory of the moment, it had latched on to an important story of the season: texture.

From the opening impression of a fur-fronted coat, its surface brushed into squares, there were all manner of surface effects — from fluffed-up sweaters, through a tactile ginger shearling jacket zipped up the back, to a dress that seemed to be covered with blue and white filaments.

Sportmax also made the most of another trend of the season: a carwash-panel skirt. Tailored pleats, either left open or as the back panel in semi-sheer chiffon, are one of those looks that appear to be an instant hit.

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