Posts Tagged ‘Modern’

Modern

Modern architecture and technique met in an inspired MaxMara show. This collection is worth checking out; pictures don’t adequately convey the textures of fabrics — which include camel’s hair, cashmere and a spun alpaca that resembles fur — or how well the volumes of the coats were worked out. The Bauhaus was apparently the inspiration for the everyday stylishness, as well as the soft browns and slate grays. The underpinnings were duly up-to-date: ribbed knits and a pajama-like separates, with sneakers.

Somehow, the many mutations of prints at Etro had a dulling effect. It was unclear what Veronica Etro wanted to do. There were the exploding line patterns and then some rather hard-looking sportswear with much trimming, but it all seemed like just clothes.

Ms. Versace whipped out a terrific show. Sure, there is now an adolescent quality to sex-shop leather (down to the studded stiletto cowboy boots). But after last season’s insubstantial clothes, she has maneuvered Versace toward a more youthful customer without losing sophistication and brand identity.

Plus, her take on styles like kilts (with a front flap of black patent leather) and classic overcoats, in Vegas-bright wool and animal-print fur, looked fresh. Along with those ear spears (about the size of a meat thermometer) and spiked collars, the collection made a big statement.

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